Pressurized Side Burner Stove
Pressurized Side Burner alcohol stoves work by vaporizing and pressurizing alcohol inside so that it is forced out through jets on the side of the stove. The position of the side jets allow a pot to be set directly on the stove itself without extinguishing the flame. This is a little more dependable than a Hybird Sideburner Open Flame stove, but requires a primer pan to start.
Completely sealed - allowing for faster fire-ups.
No wasted fuel from open center fuel port.
Possibly more fuel efficient than other side burner alcohol stoves.
Doesn't require a pot stand, but a pot stand can still be used for increased stability.
Sideburner design not ideal for narrow pots.
Must have a primer pan and must be primed.
Difficult to construct.
May blow apart if you fail to replace screw before lighting (depending on setup).
Screw for fuel hole can be lost.
Pot may slide on stove.
Difficult to simmer.
Note - This is just one of the many DIY alcohol stove options. For more information on different options visit Zen and the Art of the Alcohol Stove and the Templates page.
This homemade sealed alcohol stove (similar to Don Johnson's Photon Stove but doesn't need a pot stand) burns denatured alcohol (ethanol), HEET (methanol) and similar fuels. It doesn't require a pot stand but does need a primer pan to heat up the stove to operating temperatures. Simmering can be difficult since dropping the operating temperature below a certain point will extinguish the stove.
The stove above is made of two 12oz pop can bottoms. Twenty-four jets were drilled in the drilled/punched in the side of the stove using a template. A pushpin or #55 drill can be used to make the jets. A threaded #8 aluminum rivet and #8 aluminum screw were used to seal the fuel port. The bottom section of the stove is 20mm tall in the photo, but anything between 15-25 would be fine. The top piece is about 30mm tall and there is a 35mm tall inner cylinder in this stove.
NOTE - if you don't replace the screw prior to lighting your stove, there is a chance your stove will blow apart when primed if vapors inside the stove are ignited from a large open filler hole.
This is just one of many DIY alcohol stove options. For more information on different options visit the Alcohol Stove Basics and the Templates page.
Print out a template, tape it together and place it on an empty can.
Use a pushpin to make your jets as shown above.
Alternately you can use a #80 drill for a guide hole followed by a #57 drill for cleaner jets.
Mark a circumferential line 30mm from the bottom of the can you are working on and 20mm from the bottom of a second empty can.
Use scissors and trim down to your circumferential marks.
Polishing the edges with an SOS pad will aid in assembly and decrease the chance of skin lacerations later on.
Drill a hole centered in the bottom of your 30mm section.
Use a drill bit, round file, or unibit to make a 7/32" hole.
Clean off any burs with a round file or some sandpaper.
This will be your fuel port. It can be covered with a coin, pebble, nail, etc. to increase pressure in your stove.
There are a lot of Options for sealing your fuel port.
A threaded rivet tool can be used to place a treaded rivet in your fuel port.
A threaded rivet adds a nice finished look to your stove and allows for a good seal.
If you are using aluminum rivets, avoid the temptation to squeeze too hard - otherwise you will end up distorting your threads.
Test fit your screw. If you damaged your threads, use a tap or steel screw to retap your threads or start over.
Print out a 40mm inner wall template and tape it to a section from the side of a can.
Use a hole punch to punch out both bottom and top weep holes.
The top holes are used in pressurized stoves to prevent over-pressurization in the central chamber which can lead to ejection of liquid fuel at your jets.
Cut your side slits, trim your inner wall, and lock the slits together to form a cylinder as shown above.
Press a Dilator Tool into your 20mm bottom section. This should enlarge your 20mm section so that it can slip over your 30mmm section.
Perform a test fit to ensure the 20mm section can slide over the 30mm section. If it doesn't, repeat using the Dilator Tool until it does.
Note: an unopened can of the same size as your section to be stretched can be used in lieu of a Dilator Tool, but you may need to really work it by repeatedly pressing it into the bottom section at less than perpendicular angles. You are more likely to buckle the sidewall of the top section during assembly if you choose to just use an unaltered unopened can.
Smear some high temperature RTV silicone or JB Weld on the inner wall of your 20mm section.
Set your inner wall in your 20mm section.
Carefully fit your 30mm section into your 20mm section.
You may need to use a shim (shown above) to get it to fit. Just take your time to avoid damaging your stove.
To make a shim, cut out a section of aluminum from a beverage can, round edges and polish edges smooth with an SOS pad and/or metal polish. Smooth edges are important if you wish to avoid damaging your can sections.
Press it all together, set a heavy book on it and let the silicone vulcanize overnight before testing your stove.
You will need a Primer Pan to operate your stove.
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