Liquefied Gas Stoves

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Liquefied Petroleum Gas Burners

aka Canister Stoves and Gaz Stoves

Liquefied gas stoves are basically oversized Bic lighters.  They burn clean and are simple to use.  Their only real disadvantages are the heavy (in comparison to disposable plastic bottles) non-refillable canisters and poor performance in the extreme cold.

Canister Stove Basics

Advantages include:

• many commercial options

• high heat output

• compact

• generally much lighter than liquid petrol stoves

• very easy to operate

• easy to simmer

• maintenance free

• burn clean and relatively quiet

• odorless

Disadvantages include:

• weight of fuel containers (around half the weight of fuel; but still lighter than metal ones for liquid petrol)

• bulk of canisters (if you have to carry more than you need)

• heavier than alcohol stoves

• non-refillable canister makes weight planning/adjusting difficult for short trips

• may not work well at subfreezing temperatures

• flame can be easily blown out with wind

• danger if canister damaged

• pierceable canisters cannot be removed from stoves without loss of fuel and are dangerous to store on the stove as they may leak

Propane, Butane and Isobutane Stoves

There are many commercial stoves to choose from and they can be broken down into a few basic categories based on where the gas canister if mounted.

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Top Mounted Stoves

 

 2.5oz Titanium Snow Peak GigaPower (Canister and fuel not included in weight)

 

The majority of backpacking gas stoves are designed to be mounted right on top of a disposable fuel canister.  This allows of a minimal setup which makes the stove both lightweight and easy to pack.  The downside of mounting a stove directly over its fuel source is the potential for overheating the fuel and explosion if you use a tight windscreen, or cook for extended periods with a large pan that reflects a lot of heat back down at the canister.

 

 

15oz Jetboil System

 

The new Jetboil system incorporates a neoprene insulated pot with a heat exchanger ring on the bottom called the FluxRing.  This system is designed to be more efficient with shorter boil times but is still close to a pound and lacks cooking flexibility.  It's a step in the right direction and tinkerers may be able to improve on this design.  Interesting to note is that the Jetboil system will still work if laid on its side - be careful if the canister is more than 50% full.

 

 

20oz Century Matchless Single-Burner Stove (Canister and fuel not included in weight)

 

Although most propane stove designs use a hose to connect to a propane canister, a few allow them to be mounted directly on a small propane tank.  This makes them a little easier to pack but tend to be too heavy and bulky for any kind of backpacking. 

 

 

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Remote Canister Stoves

11oz Coleman Xtreme

 

The Coleman PowerMax line of stoves use a special canister designed to pick up the liquid fuel at the bottom of the canister instead of gas fuel at the top.  This is a superior design for butane-propane mixed fuel in sub-freezing temperatures as the propane gas will continue to pressurize the fuel and feed the stove instead of being used up first and leaving the majority of the butane unusable.  The Powermax canisters are also made from thick aluminum which insulates better than thin steel and are more recyclable (there's even a puncture key supplied with the stove).  The fuel mix also made up of a whopping 40% propane.  It may be possible to use 7/16 NS threaded Lindal canisters either right side up or upside down if you can't find this unique fuel for your stove- do so at your own risk.

 

6.8oz MSR WindPro

 

The MSR WindPro, MSR Rapidfire, Snowpeak GigaPower BF [GS-300A], Markill Spider, Primus Himalaya EasyFuel and several other stoves connect to the fuel canister remotely and allow for a traditional windscreen to be placed around the stove without fear of overheating the canister.  This design also allows for a sturdier platform for pots than canister mounted stoves and is easier to find fuel for than the Coleman PowerMax. 

 

Not having the stove mounted on top of your canister allows you to do some special techniques.  It is possible to run a regular canister upside down, which maximizes the vaporization of the propane in your canister during subfreezing temperatures similar to the Coleman PowerMax canister's use of propane pressure to drive liquid fuel to the stove.  See Cold Weather Operations below for more information.

 

6.8oz Markill Stove Base Adapter

 

Markill also makes a stand for canister mounted stoves that allows you to connect to your fuel canister remotely with a hose for better stability and "when it's extremely cold the cartridge can be placed near the burner for warmth, helping to increase burning power."

 

 

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Side Mounted Stoves

 

 

Gas stoves that mount their canister horizontally are not very common in the US or European backpacking community, but are much more common in Asia.  These may be the stove of choice for traveling though populated areas of many parts of Asia, where the special canisters needed for these stoves are easy to find and cheap.

 

 

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Refillable Gas Stoves

18oz Pocket Stove

 

Refillable butane stoves, such as this hefty 18 ouncer, tend to be much heavier than canister stoves and are more suitable for boats, cars and demonstrations than backpacking.

 

 

Mini 3hour refillable stove

 

There are a few refillable stoves that are somewhat suitable for some backpacking use and have the advantage of being refillable with easy to find butane canisters used for refilling gas lighters.  These stoves are difficult to find in the Western world.

 

Roburn Micro Burner

 

Some of this mico stoves are often used with fondue sets or in chemistry labs.

 

 

Fuel Types

Propane, Butane and Isobutane all have similar heat values and work more or less the same above freezing temperatures.  These fuels will not work well bellow their respective boiling points since they won't be able to build up sufficient pressure for stove operation, so the differences in fuel performance by and large relates to fuel's boiling points.  The lower the boiling point, the less likely it will fail in the cold.

Fuel Mixes

Isobutane and/or propane are often added to butane to allow stoves and lanterns to operate at subfreezing temperatures.  These fuel mixes don't affect the vaporization of butane and each fuel vaporizes separately.  This is important because at temperatures below the boiling point of butane, the added fuels will vaporize and be used up first.  If your canister isn't warmed by the burning of the more volatile fuels, these fuels will burn off first and leave you with just butane remaining.

 

Isobutane/Butane Blends

Basically, isobutane may allow you to operate your stove at subfreezing temperatures down to 11° F (-12°C), that is - until the isobutane runs out..

 

 

Propane mixes (20-40% Propane) (Butane/Propane, Butane/Isobutane/Propane, Isobutane/Propane, IsoPro, IsoPropane)

The higher the propane content the longer it will burn at lower temperatures.  You may still end up with most of the butane and/or isobutane remaining in the canister if using a stove below 31° F (0.5°C) or 11° F (-12°C) respectively.

 

 

Isopropane

The term isopropane suggests that this is structural isomer of propane, but since propane is a  three carbon hydrocarbon, a structural isomer doesn't exist.  Isopropane is instead a commercial term used to describe isobutane/propane mixes (and sometimes butane/propane mixes).  Manufactures claim this combo is great for low temperature use and improves fuel performance by decreasing the tapering off affect of butane alone.

 

Cold Weather Operation

One of the biggest limitation of canister stoves is there decreased performance or complete failure at low temperatures.  This is due to the lack of effective gas pressure once the temperature of the canister drops below the boiling point of the fuel.  When fuel fails to build up enough pressure to effectively feed your stove, your stove slows and eventually stops.  To compound matters, running a stove releases gases from a canister, which cause more of the liquid fuel to vaporize, which requires energy that in turn drops the temperature of the canister even more.  The longer you run your stove the colder the canister becomes and you may need intermittent rewarming or continuous heating to keep your canister going.  See The Nature and Behaviour of Mixtures of Fuels by Roger Caffin for more information on gas dynamics.

Propane boils at -43° F (-40° C)

Butane boiling at 31° F (0.5° C)

Isobutane boils at 11° F (-12° C)

One way to improve performance is to use fuels that have lower boiling points.  Pure propane is the best commonly used liquefied gas for cold weather but requires a heavy duty steel canister which isn't suitable for most backpacking needs.  Butane can be stored in much thinner walled cans, making it more suited for backpacking but butane doesn't work in subfreezing temperatures.  Often isobutane and/or propane are added to butane cans to allow the stove to get started in subfreezing temperatures.  Unfortunately, in very low temperatures, the propane and/or isobutane will boil off and leave the majority of the butane fuel unusable at those temperatures.

You may want to set your fuel on an insulating platform to protect it from snow or ice.

Another way to improve fuel performance in the cold is to get the fuel temperature up.  There are several ways to to this and some are quite dangerous if done inappropriately.

Safe methods of warming fuel canisters

keep it in your jacket to warm it up

sleep with it in your bag

place or dip it in warm water

pour a bit of hot water on it

urinate on your stove

chemical hand-warmers may help a little

Risky methods of warming fuel canisters - using heat from a stove -  overzealousness and carelessness can lead to an explosion - do so at your own risk

use a carefully ventilated windscreen (if you do too good of a job insulating the canister, it may explode)

use a heat exchanger (flattened copper wire with one end wrapped around the canister once and with the other end protruding up into or near the flame)

warm a canister by placing it near the stove (too close for too long and you might end up dead or without one of your hands)

Note - most canisters are designed with concave bottom that will pop outwards before complete canister rupture if over pressurized.  The valves themselves may also bleed off overly pressurized gasses unless a stove or lantern is securely attached to it.

 

Another method to maximize fuel pressures is to feed your stove with liquid instead of gas fuel.  This will allow the vapor pressure of the more volatile fuels to force mixed liquid fuel into your stove instead of just burning up first and leaving unusable butane.  There will also be less phase change from liquid to gas in the canister resulting in less canister cooling.  This concept is used with the Coleman PowerMax fuel canisters, which have a weighted diptube to pick up the liquid at the bottom of the can and not the gas at the top.

Coleman® Exponent® Powermax® Fuel Adapter

With some setups, canisters may be used upside down.  This would force out liquid instead of gas into your fuel line, similar to running PowerMax canisters.  Coleman infact makes an adapter to run screw on canister upside down.

The Primus Himalaya manual states that one safe cold environment trick is to:

"Turn down the control valve as low as possible. Now hold the gas cartridge and turn it upside down slowly and very carefully. While doing so, you must never lift the cartridge higher than the stove itself to avoid a sudden burst of flames."

 

When asked via email if the MSR Windpro could operate with the canister upside down, a tech at MSR replied:

"Yes, you can turn the canister upside down when using the WindPro but you would want to use the same precautions stated in the Primus manual."

Since the Primus Himalaya EasyFuel, MSR WindPro, MSR Rapidfire, and Snowpeak GigaPower BF Stove [GS-300A] have similar designs with a hose connection and heated vaporizer tube, they should be able to run PowerMax canisters (you may need an adapter) or regular fuel canisters upside down  - do so at your own risk.

There are several remote fueled canister stoves, such as the Markill Spider, that don't have vaporizer tubes (generators).  This feature is desirable to vaporize the fuel prior to it exiting the jet.  Running a canister upside down without a vaporizer tube isn't recommended and can be dangerous.

Wind

Another limitation of canister stoves is that they may have problems staying lit in the wind.  An easy way enhance their performance is to simply add some sort of windscreen.  Unfortunately, windscreens can be dangerous for canister stoves since they can trap heated air around the canister which could lead to an explosion.

Pie Pan Windscreen Base

If you decide to build a windscreen, one safe option is to build the base of the screen so that it rests on the stove and doesn't surround the canister as shown above.  These can be easily built from coffee cans, pots larger than the one you are using to cook with, oven liners, aluminum flashing, etc.  See Roger Caffin's Wind and Radiation shields, Homemade Canister Stove Windscreen and 2DrX Explorations' windscreen for more information.  A completely different windscreen design is Tom Wood's KiteScreen.

The crimped edge of the windscreen show above were made with a homemade crimper.  See Special Tools.

Another option is to build a windscreen that doesn't go completely around the stove but instead leaves a large enough opening to prevent any build up of heat around the canister.

Canister Types

Fuel cartridges for stoves come in a couple of different styles.  Make sure you know what style your stove used before purchasing fuel.  Generally speaking, the top fuel port style on the canister determines what stoves will work on it.  If your stove can be attached to the top fuel port on a particular canister, you should be able to use it regardless of brand.  Do note fuel blends vary a bit between manufacture and isobutane and propane fuels may produce too much pressure for poorly made butane only stoves.

CV206 Pierceable Canister

The EN 417 Type 200 (C100 and C200 series) pierceable/puncture/nonresealable canisters are made for one time attachment and must be used completely before removing.  These tend to be cheaper (half the price) than other canister types and may be the only available canister depending on what country you are in.  Once you puncture them, they must stay on your stove or lantern until all the fuel is used up and because of this, they create a fire/explosion hazard if your stove or lantern leaks while packed in your ruck.

Resealable Nonrefillable Threaded Canister

Most commonly used with backpacker canister stoves are those with a 7/16 NS threaded Lindal resealable valve.  These canisters share the same universal threaded female valve fitting made for EN 521 appliances, allow for removal of the fuel cartridge between use and are safer for transport than pierceable canisters.  Canisters of this design are generally made of thin material, don't have a bleeder/dump valve and are considered nonrefillable.  Off brand canisters found in Asian may not thread or seal right.  Tall and narrow threaded butane canisters resembling spray cans may also be found at very cheap prices, but may make poor stove bases.

215gram Aluminum and 225gram Steel Primus Canisters

Not all threaded canisters are created equal.  Primus produced both aluminum and steel canisters.  The aluminum canisters are lighter and can be identified by their sharp shoulders (left above).

Note:  These threaded canisters are often referred to as "universal EN417" canisters by many sources, including several manufactures.  EN417 actually refers to a CEN (Conseil Européen pour la Normalisation) Standard for "non-refillable metallic gas cartridges for liquefied petroleum gases, with or without a valve, for use with portable appliances - Construction, inspection, testing and marking."  Since the pierceable canister shown above also meets EN417 specifications, there can be some confusion when a canister is solely referred to as EN417 compatible.

"Easy Clic" Resealable Nonrefillable Unthreaded Canister

The French Campingaz CV line (now also the US Coleman line) of stoves and lanterns use there own "Easy Clic" resealable system with a port similar to the screw on types, but without the threads and a deeper depression around the fuel port.  Its stoves and lanterns easily clip and unclip from the canister with a slight twist of a plastic lever.  The multi mount on the MSR SuperFly should work with this canister design (while retaining its ability to use threaded canisters).

PowerMax 60/40 Butane/Propane

Coleman has an aluminum (making it the lightest canister around) PowerMax canister with a top similar to the threaded Lindal but with a hexagon shaped fuel valve instead of threads.  It has a weighted diptube that picks up liquid gas at the bottom of the bottle.  Well suited for lower temperatures, this design forces out mixed liquid fuel instead of just propane gas when the canister temperature drops below freezing.  They're designed to be used sideways with the heavy Coleman line of Max stoves and make poor stove bases since they are tall and narrow.  These canisters will only work not work with not Powermax stoves without modifications since the hexagon top has a larger diameter than other tops.

Heavy duty steel refillable canisters can be refilled or exchanged at special shops in Europe.  Only certain stoves and lanterns will fit on these and the canisters as well as there stoves are generally more suitable for carvan camping than backpacking.

Coleman 465g Propane Fuel Cylinder

Several companies in the US market a heavy steel propane fuel canister with bleeder/dump valves for camping.  The handling and storage information provided by the manufactures state to never refill these cylinders and that Federal law in the US forbids transportation if refilled.  These, like the stoves and lanterns that work with them, are great for car camping but too heavy to be suitable for most backpackers' needs.

There are several companies that make butane cartridges for portable stoves.  One such design has a bayonet male fitting and a collar with a notch in it.  These canister may cost a little less than their wider based brothers and may be easier to pack.  You may be able to find these canisters at boat shops for a price or at Asian markets for very very cheap.

Generally for refilling butane lighters, male universal fueling tip (nipple tip, bayonet end) canisters can be used with a few portable stoves and lanterns that have built in fuel chambers.  Canisters of this design are usually filled with butane only, but a few manufactures sell isobutane filled canisters as well.

Coleman CV 360 Canister for Rando 360 stove

There are a couple of unique setups and canisters out there such as the Coleman CV 360 made for the Rando 360 show above.  The CV 360 has a resealable top similar to other Campingaz canisters, but the depression isn't as deep.

Hank Roberts LP Gas Canister

The old Optimus 702 and Hank Roberts LP Gas canisters for the the Gerry, Browning, Hank Roberts, and Optimus 731 Mousetrap stoves have a special rubber nipple that seals around the unique fuel needle used by these stoves.  These canister are no longer made and you may need to make or find an adapter for use with newer canister or consider refilling used canisters.

Canister Weights

Canister Adapters

9.7oz GoGas, 8.25oz Powerpak and 6.3oz Markill Pierceable gas cartridge adapters

Adapters such as the GOGAS 2130, Karrimor PowerPack and Markill's (show above) allow you to use pierceable fuel canisters with EN 521 stoves and lanterns designed for fuel canisters with 7/16 NS threaded Lindal valves .

Markill Campingaz Adapter

Markill makes an adapter for the Campingaz CV line that may also work with the PowerMax canisters.  Just beware that if you use the PowerMax canister, fuel will come out in liquid form, which may be dangerous depending on your stove.

0.9oz Brunton FuelTool

Resealable screw on canisters can be converted to a male universal fueling tip canister with a FuelTool which may offer you the option of refilling lighters and lanterns on the trail and/or use special mixes of fuels for to improve cold weather reliability. 

Cheddar Gas Refill Adaptor

A very similar brass adapter may be found through a model train store for refilling trains with screw on canisters.  GasMate has yet another adapter, but for bayonet canisters to be used for refilling lighters and such.

Gasmate Adapter

Gasmate makes an adapter to allow for canister mounted screw on stoves to use side mounted Butane canisters with bayonet connections (such as the gasmate G4210 or B-CAN2) .  These cans have a notched rim to allow you to twist and lock them in place.

Camp Pro offers a RetroFit Kit for the old Hank Roberts, Camp Pro and Perfection camping Mini Mark II & III, Gerry Mini, & Browning Mini needle style stoves that enables them to use the newer threaded style canisters.

If you don't see the adapter you need above, you can purchase just about any kind of adapter from www.alva.ne.jp  Babel Fish.

Gauging Fuel

It is important for those who are serious about weight to be able to determine how much fuel they will need and how much is left in canisters.  Since LPG canisters aren't transparent, it can be difficult to determine how much you've used and how much is left.  But, with a little practice, you should be able to shake a used canister a estimate how much is left (don't shake it while your stove is running).  You can also look for a condensation or frost line on your canister while using it.

Probably the most accurate way of determining fuel left in a canister is by weighing it.  This may not be an option on the trail, but after you get back, you can weigh used canisters to determine how much fuel was used on your trip and record it for future planning purposes, and then write the amount of fuel remaining on the side of the canisters for future use.

Brunton Gas Gauge

Burnton makes a sticker similar to a aquarium thermometer sticker for measuring fuel in your canister.

Disposal of Canisters

So, what do you do with the canisters after you use up the last bit of fuel?  One option is to refill them (described below), and the other is to recycle them or to throw them out.

Snow Peak Can Puncher

Disposal of empty fuel canisters poses a problem as even when empty, can explode when crushed by a trash compactor.  In order to safely recycle or dispose of empty canisters, they should first be punctured.  Puncturing may be done with a commercial grade Can Puncturer, a mini Can Puncher such as those made by Snow Peak and Coleman, or any assortment of chisel/hammer combinations.  Cans not punctured are considered hazardous waste and should be disposed of at at a Universal Waste Handlers.

EPIカンベンチレーター  (EPIgas Can-Ventilator)

Is puncturing your safe to do?  Most manufactures state on their canisters to never puncture/pierce or incinerate, even after use.  Lots of people puncture and crush canisters in their garages, and it probably isn't all that risky if the canister is empty.  Do so at your own risk.

Can you just throw away empty canisters?  This depends on where you live and who you talk to.  Some areas allow you to throw out empty canisters (including disposable propane canisters) if they are under two pounds or so.  Other areas will require that canister can only be disposed of at a special disposal facility.

Refilling

Being able to refill your fuel canisters gives you the the option to adjust the amount of fuel for a trip, consolidate fuel from partially empty canisters, and use cheaper fuel (especially in the case of propane).  Unfortunately, liquefied gas canisters used for backpacking are generally considered nonrefillable.  Butane canisters are generally too thin to "safely" reuse over and over again and lack bleeder/dump valves.  The heavy steel cylinders used for propane canisters are considered unrefillable by the manufactures and possibly by law (for resale).  That said, if it is possible to refill plastic butane lighters, it is likewise possible to refill metal butane and propane canisters - the real question is whether it is safe or not.  The following information is for educational purposes only and in no way can refilling canisters marked "Never refill this cylinder," "Do Not refill," etc be considered completely safe.  Do so at your own risk.

Propane Canisters -

Heavy duty propane canisters such as those sold by Coleman seem well suited for and can be easily and very cheaply (1/6 cost of replacement canister) refilled from larger canisters with a brass coupler (show below) or with a fabricated homemade adapter.  The key is to not overfill the canister, as that would guarantee a leak after it warms up.

Brass Propane Filler Coupler

To ease filling you may need to stick your cylinder in a freezer for half and hour or more to liquefy your fuel and decrease pressure in the canister.

To help avoid overfilling, you can fill the canister while it is at an angle so that air/gas is trapped in the top most portion of the canister.  The trapped gas will prevent the cylinder from overfilling.  You can also use the bleeder valve to dump any extra fuel.  You can also record the full weight of a new canister, weigh your canister after fueling and add/dump as needed.  Shake your canister when you are all done to make sure that it isn't "topped off."

Butane Canisters -

These canisters can be very thin and are not made for long term abuse.  If you are trying to save money buy using fuel not made for your stove, there are easier and less problematic options, such as using an adapter that allows your stove to run cheaper fuels.  Also see this Bushwalking Stove site for more information on refilling.

That said, a Burton FuelTool or butane canister designed for refilling lighters can be used to refill Campingaz and PowerMax canisters without modifications.

Cheddar Gas Valve designed for refilling tanks for model trains

Two of these with a hose or tube connecting them should make a great refill tube

An adapter can be easily fabricated from two Brunton FuelTools, old stove parts, couplings, etc.  Or, just about any combination of adapter can be purchased from www.alva.ne.jp  Babel Fish.

To help avoid overfilling, you can try filling the canister while it is at an angle so that gas is trapped in the top most portion of the canister.  The trapped gas will prevent the cylinder from overfilling.  You can also record the full weight of a new canister, weigh your canister after fueling and add/dump as needed.  Shake your canister when you are all done to make sure that it isn't "topped off."

Running Propane in Butane Stoves -

You may need to add a pressure regulator to prevent damage to your stove if you decide to hook a butane stove to a purely propane canister.  Filling a light duty butane canister with 100% propane is easy to do and may give you the best lightweight cold weather cook system around, but it may also be unable to handle propane pressures, leading to an explosion and death.  This is of course worst case speculation.

Running Other Gases -

Some gasses, such as acetylene, require a stabilizer to prevent violent decomposition and explosion during storage and transport.  Hotter burning gasses tend to burn at higher temperatures close to the stove and may damage them or cause a serious incident.  Use of gasses other than butane, isobutane or propane for refilling empty canisters, camp stoves and/or lanterns present a serious and real danger.  Do not use fuels your stove isn't designed for!

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