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DIY Windscreen/Potstand - Old School
Cone Shaped Windscreen-Potstands
Charcoal Starters - related ideas
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Here are just a few methods of making a potstand for your stove and pot. Please view our PotStand Parent Page for an intro of other options.
One popular theme is to combine a potstand with a windscreen designed specifically for your pot and stove setup. The advantage being that you have a single lightweight unit that insulates, blocks wind and securely cradles your pot. This windscreen can be made from aluminum roof flashing, cutouts from a thin aluminum bake pan, or just about any type of thin metal sheet (shim stock, heavy hobby foil, drink can sidewalls, etc.). Some backpackers use stainless steel shim or titanium foil to make durable and heat resistant pot stands which can also double as wood stoves.
Captain Paranoia's Windscreen PotStand Tool
Captain Paranoia of the UK was generous enough to build a wonderful PostScript tool which allows you to print out a full size paper template for a cylindrical windscreen for use as a potstand or solely as a windscreen. You will need a PostScrip viewer, a ruler to take measurements and a printer.
Windscreen Template ready for printing on GSViewer
Photoshopped Slot & Tab joint per Captain Paranoia
PostScript viewers:
GhostScript, GSView - open source viewer
view.samurajdata.se - online viewer
PhotoShop - views Draughtsman's page only
Adobe Distiller
Here is Captain Paranoia's PostScript Tool below. To use, simply:
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Building a Windscreen - Old School
With a ruler, pen and a little math, you can make your own windscreen/potstand combo.
Step 1 Windscreen Trimming
The real first step in building a windscreen-potstand is to read through the rest of this page and determine exactly what type of design you would like to construct. After you have settled on a design, you can make a prototype out of paper or extra foil and see how well this fits around your pot and stove and how well it packs.
Most designs fit around the pot in a similar manner and can be trimmed to size using the simple diagrams below (the narrow, folded and cone shaped versions are obvious exceptions). First, measure the outside diameter of the pot you wish to use, keeping in mind that the top rim might be larger than the rest of the pot. You may want to just measure the inner diameter of the pot if there is a large lip and your windscreen isn't going all the way to the top of your pot. You can also wrap paper around your pot, measure the circumference and divide by 3.14 (Pi) to get the most accurate diameter.
Add 1-2 cm (1/4 to 3/4 of an inch) to the diameter of your pot to allow for some space around your pot (necessary for carbon dioxide ventilation).
Multiply the diameter of your pot stand by 3.14 (Pi) and add 7.5 cm or about 3 inches for your locking tabs (if using the double folded locking ends). This will be the overall length of your windscreen prior to folding.
Now determine the height of your windscreen. Ideally, the windscreen should come up as high around the pot as possible, while still allowing room for handles, pot lifters, or to grab with protected hands. Determine how much of your pot you would like to cover and add the height of your stove plus about 2.5cm for the flame. If you wish to store your windscreen in your pot, your height will simply be the depth of you pot.
Mark your measurements on a piece of sheet metal (aluminum flashing or bake pan). Taping graph paper on your sheet will help make square measurements and straight cuts a snap.
X = desired space between pot and windscreen (1-2cm)
Y = space between stove and pot (2.5-5cm)
If you are using aluminum flashing or some other sheet metal with a coating, you may wish to sand them down to remove any coating that will blacken, burn and become sticky after you fire up your stove.
The following Oldschool pot stand calculator should help with designing. The Fiddle Factor feature gives just a little bit of length to your screen to make up for any short cuts, folds, etc.
Step 2 Connecting the Ends
Backpackers often store their windscreen-potstands in their pot, around/inside a sleep pad, wrapped around their fuel bottle or rolled up for protection. Because of this, it is helpful (if not required) to be able to disassemble your windscreen for storage. Luckily there are several methods for making assembling and disassembling possible.
Your connecting technique will determine how much extra screen material you will need to overlap or lock your ends. You should have read this prior to trimming your screen to help plan how much overlap you need - but if you have already made your cut, you should be fine since the above template allows for enough overlap for any of the following techniques.
Style Prefold Overlap Needed Final Overlap Needed Slot and Tab Joint 16.5cm 8.25cm r4 1.5cm Double Rolled Locking Ends 7.5cm 1.5cm 1.5cm Single Hooked Ends 4.5cm 1.5cm Paperclipped Ends 2cm+ 2cm+ Paperclipped and Punched Ends 2cm+ 2cm+ 3cm Buckle >3cm >3cm Locking Slit Ends 2cm+ 2cm+
Slot & Tab Joint. This is one of the sturdiest and easiest ways to make a locking windscreen joint. This design was shared by Captain Paranoia in the UK.
Photoshopped Slot & Tab joint per Captain Paranoia
Two part (top and bottom) Flissure also shown
Captain Paranoia Windscreen designed to fit in pot for storage
Captain Paranoia Windscreen Template with stacking Flissure Option
You use a single folded over tab at each end. One tab folds outward on the top of one side and the other tab folds inward from the bottom side of the other end. These tabs fit into triangular slots located at the opposing end of the screen. The weight of the stand forces these tabs into their respective slots and hold the stand locked in a cylinder.
Image Not to Scale
Note folded over tabs (one fold out and one folded in)
When folding your tabs over, it is important that you do not form a crease with our fold. A crease will case premature failure of this fold. Use a tube from a pen to create a mandrel or use a few pieces of stacked metal sheet to "roll" your tab over.
See Captain Paranoia's PostScript Tool above for more on this type of joint.
Double Rolled Locking Ends. This is one of the sturdier methods for locking your pot stand in position. Roll/fold the edges of your stand as shown below. A nail, ink tube from a disposable ballpoint pen or small tube from the hobby shop can be used to keep a nice rounded edge - simply place it inside your folds and squeeze with your fingers. Rolled edges, compared to flat ones, will help the two ends lock together. It may be a bit tricky to get that perfect fold to work just right, but it should remold itself after your first test with a lit stove.
Note - If you are using coated aluminum sheet (such as aluminum roof flashing) you may want to at the very least sand down where the edges will come in contact. This will prevent the ends from getting stuck together after the pot stand is heated up, causing the coating to burns, melt and become sticky.
For a 1.5cm hook, you will need to add 7.5cm to the length of your windscreen (as shown in the example above).
Image Not to Scale
Hooked Ends. This is not the sturdiest method of connecting the ends, but is simple to do. Try to get the very end of the hook to press against the windscreen without putting a crease in the fold.
For a 1.5cm hook, you will need to add 4.5cm to the length of your windscreen (3cm less than the example above).
Notable Versions:
backpackinglight.com 294286
US Patents:
915,239 - very simple bent ends to create vertical hooks
Image Not to Scale
Paperclipped Ends. Paperclips, binder clips, bobby pins and similar tools do a great job of holding windscreens together.
For a small paperclip, you will need to add about 2cm or more to the length of your windscreen (5.5cm less than the example above). The paperclip method allows you a lot of flexibility in sizing your windscreen. Some backpackers even adjust the size of their screens to adjust heat output and performance of their stoves.
Notable Versions:
backpackinglight.com 34497 Paperclipped ends under pot handle; Ti foil
backpackinglight.com 207261 Paperclipped ends under pot handle; Ti foil
Dave's 55 gram beer can stove - Hairpin Closure
Image Not to Scale
Paperclipped and Punched Ends. This is sturdier than just paperclipping.
For a small paperclip, you will need to add about 2cm or more to the length of your windscreen if you center your hole 1cm from the end (5.5cm less than the example above).
Image Not to Scale
Tabbed Ends. Not the most durable setup and the tabs may hook on things, and eventually beak off. Try to get the very end of the tabs to press against the windscreen without putting a crease in the fold, since a crease can lead to a tear.
You will need to add about 2cm to the length of your windscreen if you center your tab 1cm from the end (5.5cm less than the example above). This tab allows you to slide in the other end of the windscreen and allows for adjustability.
Image Not to Scale
Belt Buckle. Jason Klass has made a very simple attachment system that allows you to easily resize your windscreen/potstand diameter to fit different size pots and to become small enough to stow inside a cook pot. The sliding band design can be applied to any windscreen made out of aluminum flashing and holds better than paperclips. Simply cut a separate length of sheet metal and fold over the ends so that it cradles the windscreen/potstand and allows the two ends to slide through it. Try to get the ends of the buckle to press against the windscreen without putting a crease in the fold, since a crease can lead to a tear.
Notable Versions:
Jason Klass' Belt Buckle Windscreen
Old images:
Jason Klass' Newest Belt Buckle Windscreen
Image Not to Scale
Punched Ends. This may not the best way to connect or seal the ends, but can work surprisingly well. If you are using metal rods for pot supports, you may punch holes right at the edge and use the rod to keep the holes lined up.
Flat Cat Snow Leopard
You will need to add 2cm to the length of your windscreen if you center your hole 1cm from the end (5.5cm less than the example above) and more if you desire a more stable setup. A more secure setup would allow for enough overlap for your metal rod to cross through the overlap at both ends.
Notable Examples:
flatcatgear.com on some of their potstands
Image Not to Scale
Locking Slit Ends. This is not the best way to connect or seal the ends, and you may eventually hook your end on some gear and damage your stand. Make a slit just past half way down the side of each end of your wind screen and lock them together for use. The potstand will look better and more round with the ends on the inside of the potstand as opposed to having them on the outside of the potstand.
Notable Example:
backpackinglight.com 390249 - show with tabs on outside (having them on the inside is better)
backpackinglight.com 57809 - possibly slits
You will need to add about 2cm to the length of your windscreen if you center your slit 1cm from the end (5.5cm less than the example above).
Image Not to Scale
Permanently Locked Ends. If you don't need to disassemble your windscreen for storage (such as when you can flip it over and slide it over your pot or when it is small enough to place it in your pot as is), you can permanently lock the ends with rivets, a pressed seam or folded over tabs. You might even be able to find an acceptably sized aluminum duct or tin can already made for your application.
Other. There are many ways to attached the two ends of a potstand/windscreen.
1954 US Patent 2,842,116
Punched holes can be lined up and filled with fasteners, cotter pins, wire or rods.
1954 US Patent 2,842,116
1954 US Patent 922,478
tongue and slot method for locking the ends
Notable Ideas:
backpackinglight.com 22027 Snap fasteners
photobucket.com Caldera20Cone20stove20005a Caldera20Cone20stove20004a
Ultra Magnus' 8.5oz Bikepacking Kitchen
My Caldera Clone - locking 90 angle tab with overlapping tabs
stephandtobs.smugmug.com Dove Tail joint backpackinglight.com 15193
outdoorseiten.net 991930 friction fit
Related US Patents:
RE3968 - uses angled tabs for bolt closure
501,574 - "hook" and holes - adjustable size
611,376 - Engaging Stud - adjustable size
793,379 - Locking key
885,356 - Bolts with a series of holes to allow for adjustable size
1,017,920 - Locking L hooks
1,051,186 - Locking Compression Latch
1,007,461 - tongue and slot
1,194,131 - Bent Hook in slot - adjustable size, cone shape
1,321,678 "Heater" - describes holes used for bolts
1,467,815 - bolt in L folds
1,455,027 - Bolts for stove pipe reducer (cone shape)
1,508,334 - Lug and Slot
1,153,757 - Top and bottom hooks at ends
1,548,682 - horizontal and vertical U tabs
1,622,176 - hook - adjustable width
1,991,802 - Stove Pipe Seam locks
3,179,286 - locking fold for canned food; wings turn in to handle
3,208,478 - double L locking tabs
3,413,935 - horizontal screws
4,372,198 - locking double L tab with offset keyhole
4,592,334 - staples
5,074,279 - Tongues
5,222,325 "Tree Protector" - locking double T - adjustable size
5,329,917 - offset locking tabs
5,471,783 - Double L locking tabs
5,592,871 "Portable Stove Top Grill" describes use of a triangular wedge connector to draw in the ends
6,532,950 - opposing L hooks
6,705,311 - tabs
6,688,301 and 7,032,587 - 90 degree bent tabs for locking - adjustable size
7,246,614 - Rivet and Keyhole
7,967,003 - Magnets and other closure methods
7,107,983 - simple folded hook
Publication 2003/0230298 A1 - hook and hole, clip - adjustable size
Publication 2010/0288261 A1 - wide L hook
Step 3 Pot Supports
There are several different methods of supporting you pot with your windscreen. Here are a few examples:
Narrow Windscreen without additional support. Just build you windscreen so that it's closed diameter is less than that of your pot's outer rim and set your pot directly on it. You will need to ensure that you have enough ventilation at the top and bottom of your stand for fresh air to enter and gases from combustion can escape. This can be done by punching out holes with a hole punch or by simply cutting out several "V" notches. Depending on your pot's shape and windscreen setup, this method may not maximize the amount of stove heat forced around the side of your pot as other setups that have taller windscreens that better engulf the pot. The height of this windscreen setup should be around the height of your stove plus about 2.5cm (depending on design).
Since this stand design generally needs to be narrower than your pot for it to work, you may be able to permanently rivet the stand together for strength and still store it in your pot without issue.
Note: if you make a thin aluminum stand so narrow that a good amount of flames are constantly in contact with the stand - your stand will eventually fail from the heat. If this is the case, you may wish to use a different design of potstand or use steel or titanium for your stand instead of aluminum.
1898 US Patent 611,376
This example shows a potstand wide enough to cradle the sides of the pot.
Stands that cradle are significantly more stable than "pot directly over narrow stand" designs.
US Patent Application US20070039603
Here we have a rounded pot (similar to SnowPeak Ti Bowl) fitting in to narrow windscreen/potstand
Note upper and lower vent holes
This stand can support the pot by its side or upper rim
This potstand/wood burner is made from a pot which fits within the pot it supports
Notable versions:
whiteblaze.net 58397-Kmart-Grease-Pot-Cook-Set
Sgt Rock's Home Made Trioxane Stove
Eckert's Ultralight Trangia Pot Stand
Anthony Dunk's Methlite Web Archive
Andre Janecki's Camp StoveNew LinkZelph Starlyte Stove and Stand Jpg
backpackinglight.com 53110 - pot support on canister stove doubles as windscreen
Handiware Picnic Stove
1904 US Patent 793,379 - simple narrow potstand
Captain Paranoia Windscreen Template
If you are using a pot with a rounded bottom, you can make a more secure potstand that captures and traps the curvature of your pot or one that even engages the outer rim within your pot stand. This is commonly done for woks which lack a flat bottom altogether. This lowers the pot's center of gravity compared to the stand and make it more difficult to tip over given the wider potstand base.
US Patent 936,482
One option mentioned here suggests using a lid with a center hole cut out to allow your pot to sit securely by the pot's outer rim. A potstand can be made to fit the lid and allow for a tight control of flames around the pot. Vent holes would need to be drilled/cut into the lid or upper potstand to allow for hot exhaust gasses to escape. This technique is mentioned in the US Patent 118,095, 862,719, 1,022,237 and 2,080,592. See also 856,935 with perforated top.
Nubs can also be welded to the outside of your pot so that they are engage on the top of your windscreen potstand. Rivets and epoxy can also be used, but have their own drawbacks. Silicone bands wrapped around cans and pots have worked surprisingly well to hold up pots.
Some deep saucers and pots with wide rims can also be used with a circular potstand so that the wide rim rests directly on the upper edge of the potstand. This was a common setup with older cook sets for campers.
1859 US Patent 26,595
Note collapsible windscreen/potstand supporting pot by rolled rim of pot
Inner cone in pot increases surface area exposed to flame and allows for storage of pot over burner
Notable US Patents:
Pot Secured by Rim:
26,595 "Water Heater" - Collapsible sides
33,909 "Lamp Stove"
118,095 - use of stove rings
139,433 "Improvements in Cooking Utensils"
146,906 "Improvements in Dinner Pails"
172,857 "Culinary Vessel" - Corrugated Inverted Cone shaped stand
175,263"Dinner Pail"
198,316 "Cooking Apparatus"
264,215 "Boiler for Cooking Grain"
295,400 "Lunch Heater"
501,574 "Attachment for Cooking Stoves" - simple cylindrical potstand with horizontal rib
506,849 "Culinary Vessel" - actually casted together with pan
752,503 "Combined Hood and Cooking Utensil" - cone shaped
1,383,971 "Cooking Utensil" supported by handles or rim
1,391,415 "Field Stove" - pot and inverted cone potstand over stove
1,399,866 double walled windscreen for maximum heat retention.
1,598,221 "Roaster"
1,710,971 "Cooking Utensil"
1,952,776 "Culinary Utensil" see fig 4 and 6
2,064,101 "Cooking Apparatus" - Insulated potstand
2,152,924 "Cooking Utensil"
2,202,320 "Cooking Set"
2,282,400 "Cooking Utensil" Cone shaped potstand which engages rolled edge
2,756,738 "Field Stove"
2,678,644 "Food-Warming Stove or Apparatus"
3,391,687 "Culinary Utensil"
4,872,445 "Culinary Utensil"
Pot Secured on Sides:
227,369 "Dinner Pail"
376,119 "Lunch Pail"
611,376 "Supporter for Cooking Utensils" - adjustable size; asbestos lined
885,356 "Furnace"
1,055,526 - asbestos lined potstand
1,383,972 "Cooking Utensil" Support ring and
1,431,696 "Culinary Utensil"
1,698,225 "Culinary Utensil" Cone shaped stand engages special rim on pot
5,125,393 - bolted to side of pot
Pot Secured on Bottom:
16,031 "Gas Stove" - Inverted Cone shaped stand with removable oven
133,231 "Improvement in Portable-Furnace and Kettle" - Flange fits around stove and locks to stove like JetBoil
881,199 "Stove Ring"
1,373,828 "Heater and Cooker" Cook set with simple sheet metal potstand with plenty of ventilation
3,381,678 "Alcohol Heating and Cooking Stove"
Double Rods. Punch out four holes at about the height of your stove plus 2.5cm and slide two metal rods through them. If don't have a hole punch long enough, you can use a Unibit, hammer and punch, or sandwich your sheet with blocks of wood and drill. The example below shows parallel rods. This looks very nice and can provide a nice wide and stable base for your pot. But double rods can also be placed triangular to create more of a three point base.
Note 4 evenly spaced hole creates a wide separation of rods
Adjust hole spacing for desired support base
As far as what to use for a metal rod, you have many options:
steel, titanium or thick aluminum tent stakes will work
coat hangers work, but they may become brittle over time and fail when you need them most
stainless bicycle spokes don't rust and can be recycled from old wheels (use a magnet to make sure they aren't aluminum)
small gauge stainless steel rods are nice and titanium is even better
brass and aluminum rods may not work with the high heat from your stove
in lieu of one of your steel rods you can cut a notch in your wind screen and rest the pot handle on it to hold up that end of the pot
Captain Paranoia Windscreen Template with stacking Flissure Option
Notable versions:
C.D. Pritchard's Pop Can Stove Web Archive
Building a better POPCAN Stove (pt.II) Web Archive
Howard's 1.0 oz. Esbit Stove Web Archive one metal rod is replaced with handle support
CASEYandEMILY.com - Pot Stand/Windscreen for Soda Can Stove Web Archive
Building a Better Windscreen Web Archive
Stove Stomper's 0.5 oz. Windscreen / Pot Stand for AntiGravityGear 3 Cup Pot Web Archive
FLAT CAT Bobcat one metal rod is replaced with handle support
backpackinglight.com 3523 Wire instead of rods
backpackinglight.com 374186 - Titanium used for wood fires
backpackinglight.com 34497 Ti foil
backpackinglight.com 1809 DIY ThermoJet
US Patent Application US20070039603
Note tab at top of windscreen to choke exaust gasses close to CanPot sides
Notable US Patents:
2,573,211 - "Charcoal Stove" Cook above and below stove
3,112,716 - describes U pins for support
4,722,322 - U rod
7,246,614 - Thermojet uses metal rods
7,600,510 - Thermojet
Note - 15 gauge bicycle spokes are 1.8mm in diameter while 14 gauge spokes are 2.0mm in diameter.
The following Oldschool Two Rod Windscreen Potstand Calculator should help make designing much easier.
Pot Diameter:
Pot Height: Space between Pot and Screen: PreFold End Overlap (see chart) Final End Overlap (see chart) Stove Height:
Space between Pot and Stove:
Fiddle Factor:
Final Screen Length: Screen Length without Overlap: Screen Height: Support Height: First Hole: Between Holes:
Triple Rods. Three is the magic number for stability and you may be able to use narrower rods than with a double rod setup, which may be easier to fit in your pot. Punch out six holes at about the height of your stove plus 2.5cm and slide three metal rods through them. If don't have a hole punch long enough, you can use a Unibit, hammer and punch, or sandwich your sheet with blocks of wood and drill.
As far as what to use for a metal rod, you have many options:
steel, titanium or thick aluminum tent stakes will work
coat hangers work, but they may become brittle over time and fail when you need them most
stainless bicycle spokes don't rust and can be recycled from old wheels (use a magnet to make sure they aren't aluminum)
small gauge stainless steel rods are nice and titanium is even better
brass and aluminum rods may not work with the high heat from your stove
in lieu of one of your steel rods you can cut a notch in your wind screen and rest the pot handle on it to hold up that end of the pot
Captain Paranoia Windscreen Template with stacking Flissure Option
Notable versions:
US Patent 5,163,415
Note - 15 gauge bicycle spokes are 1.8mm in diameter while 14 gauge spokes are 2.0mm in diameter.
The following Oldschool Three Rod Windscreen Potstand Calculator should help make designing much easier.
Pot Diameter:
Pot Height: Space between Pot and Screen: PreFold End Overlap (see chart) Final End Overlap (see chart) Stove Height:
Space between Pot and Stove:
Fiddle Factor:
Final Screen Length: Screen Length without Overlap: Screen Height: Support Height: Center First Hole Pair: Between Hole Pairs:
One Piece Folded. You can fold in tabs to build platforms for your pot like the one designed by a stover who calls himself StoveStomper. If you are using aluminum sheet for your windscreen you may not want to use this design for narrow pots as the folded in tabs may be damaged by the heat of your stove. Very thin aluminum, such as from disposable bake pans, isn't recommended for this setup - especially for narrow pots. Add 12cms to the length of the dimensions above to allow for three 2cm long tabs (for a tight fitting windscreen) or 18cm for 3cm tabs (as shown below).
Supports can be held together with rivets, staples, wishful thinking or folded over tabs.
Notable versions:
StoveStomper's 1.0oz Ultralight Backpacking Solid Fuel Stove/Windscreen Web Archive
StoveStomper's New .0oz Ultralight Backpacking Solid Fuel Stove/Windscreen Web Archive
backpackinglight.com 2245 Ti Foil prototype
backpackinglight.com 495091 - Squeezebox inspired Finned Windscreen - add folded supports and you have an adjustable sized stand
US Patent 1,007,461 - folded upper edge
The following Folded Windscreen Potstand Calculator should help make designing much easier.
Pot Diameter:
Pot Height: Size of Tabs Space between Pot and Screen: PreFold End Overlap (see chart) Final End Overlap (see chart) Stove Height:
Space between Pot and Stove:
Fiddle Factor:
Final Screen Length: Screen Length without Overlap: Screen Height: Support Height: Center First Fold: Between Center of Folds:
Various variants of folded sides and be used to capture the side, bottom and even rim of your pot.
US Patent 4,311,130
US Patent 4,905,659
Japanese Stover JSB shares this version of a potstand with folded in tabs which engage the rim of his pot.
Note folded in section which holds pot by its rim
Rand Lindsly's US Patent application 2007/0039603 A1 shows a potstand with multiple vertical ridges created from folds. These can be used to support the pot by its bottom, sides or outer rim if size properly. This pushes the windscreen out away from the side of the pot to give it some room for exhaust gasses to travel upwards. It's actually a pretty good idea but may be a challenge to pack for storage in your pack due to it being taller than your pot and not completely flat. This should be pretty easy to split in half and stacked to allow for disassembly and storage in your pot.
Windscreen with vertical ridges supporting pot (Gray)
Captain Paranoia has put together a very interesting and unique windscreen solution. He calls it the SqueezeBox. This corrugated sheet of aluminum can be squeezed, stretched, stacked and packed in your pot. A brilliant idea from the UK.
So, how does one go about making a SqueezeBox? Simply craft up a template like the one shown below, tape it to a piece of thin sheet metal, punch holes, cut and fold.
SqueezeBox Template
Riveted tabs. You may not want to use this design for narrow pots as it might be lighter and more stable to use a potstand that uses short metal rods. Various other items such as angle iron, blocks, curved or folded sheet metal and the like can be riveted, bolted, hung from or otherwise attached to your windscreen so that you can secure the bottom, sides or even the rim of a pot.
US Patent 3,658,049
This 1972 potstand comes complete with a layer or insulating asbestos
Note how riveted support tabs allow the stand to be used for various heights and even as just an insulation windscreen
Notable versions:
instructables.com Pot-Stand-Windscreen
Notable US Patents:
243,315 - Crossed chain support
246,561 - hanging hooks
1,214,992 - telescoping set; locking ring
1,221,514 - X supports
1,508,334 - interesting stove with x support
2,502,434 - Collapsible Canteen Cup stand with retractable tabs
2,820,446 - hanging supports
3,658,049 - Riveted L brackets
4,722,322 - Hanging
4,915,091 - folded clips allow pot to fit in or over windscreen
5,284,126 - several supports shown
The following is but one way to make a potstand with riveted tabs.
Cut out three pieces of aluminum flashing 10cm by 6cm (or as tall as your stove height plus 2.5cm). These will become the pieces that hold up your pot.
Note: Constructing tabs so that the bottom of each tab extends all the way to the ground will provide better support than the version shown. In fact, for a little bit of extra weight, you can use sections of aluminum angle iron that extend to the base of the stand for dependable and durable support.
Mark and fold them as shown below. You may have to lengthen or shorten these measurements depending on the size of your stove and pot.
Round off all corners and sand all edges smooth.
Now temporarily tape or krazy glue these tabs unto your main piece. Rivets work best, but you can possibly use a heavy duty staples.
The T Template might help if you like templates.
Rivets can be trimmed with scissors and smoothed down with sandpaper and/or a file.
X = desired space between pot and windscreen (1-2cm)
Y = space between stove and pot (2.5-5cm)
If you like, you can add a threaded rivet or nut to your pot stand to store a backup screw for your pressurized jet stove.
The following Riveted Windscreen Potstand Calculator should help make designing much easier.
Pot Diameter:
Pot Height: Space between Pot and Screen: PreFold End Overlap (see chart) Final End Overlap (see chart) Stove Height:
Space between Pot and Stove:
Fiddle Factor:
Final Screen Length: Screen Length without Overlap: Screen Height: Support Height: Center First Tab: Between Center of Tabs:
Step 4 Final Touches
Ventilation
If you haven't done so already, tape a couple of lengths of graph paper to your stand to help keep your ventilation holes evenly spaced. Now, punch out one to two rows of holes just above the bottom border to allow air to enter. Some backpackers prefer to punch out holes only on one side of the stove so these openings can be pointed away from or towards the wind.
Remove the paper.
Clip the stand together and test your stove and pot. Adjust or start over as required.
Smoothing
Round off all corners and use an SOS pad to smooth down all edges to prevent future cuts in the outback.
Windscreens Taller than you Pot
The focus above has been to make a windscreen which will fit within your pot. But you may wish to make a taller windscreen to increase your protection from the wind and to funnel more heat up the sides of your stove.
Ultra Magnus' 8.5oz Bikepacking Kitchen
So, how can you have a tall windscreen and store it too?
if you want a taller pot stand, you can stack two of them.
Make tabs or notches that allow the two sections to interconnect.
make a slightly narrower or wider windscreen and set it on the pot supports of the bottom supporting windscreen.
cut the bottom pot stand piece to the height of where you would like to set your pot and punch your rod holes at the base of the top piece - insert your steel wires through the top piece and set the top piece on the bottom piece with the steel wires supported by the bottom piece (the bottom of the top piece under the steel rod can wrap around the outside or inside of the bottom half).
punch three holes in the base of the top piece and use paperclips to clasp it to the top of the bottom piece.
taller pot stands can also be made and rolled up in a sleeping mat.
tall windscreen/potstands can be rolled up into a very tight cylinder (for strength and compactness) and kept rolled up with a rubber band or tie. It should be protected enough when rolled up to store in your pack.
use a separate windscreen from your potstand made from foldable foil and keep is simple.
If you have a wide but short pot, you may be able to roll up a tall windscreen and store it in your pot laying on its side.
Make a tall windscreen and fold it flat or add hinges to allow for flat folding.
Roll up your windscreen in your sleep pad.
Rolled up windscreen in sleep pad
Some roll up their windscreens and store them in a plastic cylinder such as an empty water bottle.
Notable versions:
Ultra Magnus' 8.5oz Bikepacking Kitchen
Notable US Patents:
1,437,812 "Heater" Bayonet lock connections
4,722,322 Hangers and U rod
Pot Handles - Sometimes the pot handles will get in the way when you place your pot in a windscreen potstand. A section can be cut out of the windscreen to allow for the handle to not get it the way. You and also use the handle as a point of support if you trim your windscreen just right so that the handle(s) rest on the cutout you made for them.
If you are using a pot without a handle, you will want to make sure you can lift your pot off/out of your potstand. You may need to cut out a section for a pot handle.
Pot handles can also be removed to reduce weight and may even be replaced with Kevlar or fiberglass wrap so you can just grab the pot by its side.
Notable Examples:
Howard's 1.0 oz. Esbit Stove Web Archive one metal rod is replaced with handle support
FLAT CAT Bobcat one metal rod is replaced with handle support
outdoorseiten.net 991930 Punched corners
US Patents: